Palomino is a small town in the Sierra Nevada mountains on the north coast of Colombia. It’s known for it’s surfing and river tubing activities, as well as a large backpacking hub with new hostels popping up seemingly every week. It’s the convergence between the mountains, the Palomino River and the Caribbean Sea, meaning the landscapes are absolutely stunning and a pretty unique chance to see all three terrains interact with one another.
However, it has changed considerably over the last few years. Rising prices, more tourist infrastructure, and an atmosphere that has drifted away from the off-the-beaten-track charm it was once known for. It’s still worth a stop as part of a wider Caribbean coast trip as there are fun things to do there, but if you’re coming expecting a hidden gem, it might be worth adjusting those expectations before you arrive.
Is Palomino Colombia Still Worth Visiting?
Honestly yes, but as part of a wider Caribbean coast itinerary, not as a standalone destination for budget backpackers expecting the Palomino of five years ago. Developers have started to catch wind of the area and Palomino is experiencing some heavy gentrification, as well as locals opening up local guesthouses and hotels because tourism is now the only thing they can survive off. It no longer has the “off-the-beaten-path” feel that it may have had 10 years ago. If you travel just 40 minutes by bus and stop at either Guachaca or Buritaca, this is where you’ll find that.
However, there are activities worth doing there: the stretch of beach where the river meets the sea is breathtaking, and you can rent kayaks and paddle through the mangroves. Tubing down the river is a fun afternoon with friends and a beer, and Palomino will always have a hostel hosting a wild party one evening. And of course, it’s a classic surf spot with no shortage or surf rentals or classes.
Palomino is worth a two night stop as part of a larger trip up the Caribbean Coast, and it’s a logical stop between Santa Marta and Tayrona Park, but don’t plan your trip with Palomino as the main event. Backpackers will enjoy the social crowds, but similar nature with less over tourism can be found further along the coast in Guachaca or Buritaca.
Things to Do in Palomino, Colombia
Tubing Down the Río Palomino
Probably the most popular paid experience in Palomino, and a great option for a day with no plans and newly made hostel friends. It consists of floating down the Palomino River on huge inflatable rubber rings, emerging at the Caribbean coast where the river meets the sea. It’s unhurried (not like white-water rafting), beautiful, and a great way to pass a morning or afternoon.
You can arrange tubing through your hostel or directly with operators on the main road. Prices have crept up with the gentrification of the area, but it remains affordable by any standard (about 10 GBP).
For this activity: wear something you don’t mind getting wet, leave valuables at your accommodation, and check the river conditions if it’s been raining heavily, as the current gets a lot stronger after heavy rain, which isn’t too uncommon for this area.
Walking to the two River Mouths
My favourite thing to do in this area, and it’s free. From the main beach, you can walk in either direction to reach two different river mouths- the Río Palomino to the left, or the Río San Salvador to the right. Both are long walks along an undeveloped stretch of Caribbean coastline, with the Sierra Nevada mountain range visible in the distance.
Luckily for this area, extremely high tides aren’t an issue here, so you can walk with fear the majority of the day. However, the rivers do experience increases in water volume and you may need to cross in knee-deep water depending on the time of day. Just be sure to use sunscreen and bring water as the sun is no joke, and there’s little shade.
Once you arrive, you’ll find people paddling in the river mouth, families picnic-ing, and other tourists sunbathing. Make an afternoon of it, and be sure to take in the surrounding landscapes; they’re some of the best views I saw in all of Colombia.
Day Trip to Guachaca
One of the most underwritten destinations on the Caribbean coast, and somewhere nearly no one talks about, so this place is great if you’re looking to get out of the major gringo bubble for a day.
Guachaca is a tiny area of the coast about 40 minutes by bus to the west of Palomino. I struggle to call it a town, but you can catch any bus on the Troncal heading towards Santa Marta from the main road and ask to be dropped at Guachaca. From there, walk down to the sea to find a practically untouched beach with no one on it.
Guachaca has a small strip of restaurants and places to stop for a drink- think plastic chairs directly in the sand. Make sure to order a coconut lemonade and some absolutely delicious fish or seafood. Be warned, they don’t skimp on the portion sizes here!
The Friday Night Party at Rio Hostel, Buritaca
Whilst technically situated in Buritaca and not Palomino, many people will stay in Palomino for the conveniences and make the journey to the infamous Rio Hostel on a Friday night for one of the best parties on the Caribbean coast. Factor in the 40 minute drive from Palomino town, look into splitting a taxi among a group to save on some money, and plan accordingly re: returning home in the early hours. But, if you’re travelling with hostel friends and want a proper night out, this is significantly more fun than anything Palomino’s gentrified main strip offers.
You can buy tickets in advance, which I recommend in case the tickets sell out, and the hostel brings DJs from all over the world to play their sets until the early hours. Think house, techno, drum and bass, jungle, afrobeats and more.
Coffee & Baked Goods: Where to Eat and Drink in Palomino
My favourite way to eat whilst travelling is a concept I called “local plates, boujie snacks” – that is, I’ll get menu del dia every day from the spot with the plastic chairs and locals eating at, but will happily carve out a small budget each week for artisanal coffee and the occasional pastry.
Palomino has many menu del dia restaurants on the main road that I’d recommend, but here’s two spots I’d recommend in for the latter:
Alheli Coffee
The best coffee shop in Palomino in my opinion is called Alheli. It’s actually a coffee school as well as a cafe that makes European-style coffee – this is the place to go if you’re wanting a flat white, cappuccino, macchiato, etc. The “cold chocolate” drink is also great as they don’t use much sugar at all, it’s more like a cold milk and cocoa drink which is refreshing in Palomino’s extreme heat.
See what Alheli Coffee are up to here
Panomino Bakery
As for pastries and baked goods, Panomino is the one to look for. Fresh bread, great croissants, and affordable prices. It’s a reliable breakfast or mid-morning stop, and it’s situated on the main strip so impossible to miss. My only complaint is the amount of mosquito bites I received whilst trying to relax there for an hour, but that’s an almost impossible request from this town.
Visit their Instagram here
Where to Stay in Palomino, Colombia
Palomino has no shortage of accommodation options for backpackers,sadly due to the amount of development and business interest in the area. You can find everything from budget dorm beds to mid-range and high end boutique hotels.
I will write an entire dedicated blog post to the best spots to stay in Palomino, but some notable hostels that I stayed in were:
- Dreamer Hostel – a famous party hostel right on the beach
- Bella Flor – A Colombian family owned and run hostel with great breakfast options
- Jaba Jan – out of the main Palomino town, and you’ll need to get a tuktuk to and from the area, but this is an affordable, very no-frills permaculture hostel. It’s what I imagine Palomino was like to backpack 10 years ago.
Practical Information for Visiting Palomino
How Many Days Do You Need in Palomino?
One to two days is enough. Do the tubing, walk to one or both river mouths, and make the trip to Buritaca if the timing works. Palomino is a place that requires you to slow down, and in fact many people do get “stuck” there due to it being an extremely social place for tourists, but that’s exactly why I wouldn’t recommend spending too long. I would maybe tack on an extra day or two if you’re an avid surfer.
If you’re thinking about using Palomino as a base for a Tayrona day trip, I would maybe reconsider and book a hostel closer to the entrance like Journey Hostel or The Fort – these are much better designed hostels and you can get something much more “luxe” for the same price.
How to Get to Palomino, Colombia
Palomino sits on the main coastal road between Santa Marta and Riohacha, called the Troncal del Caribe. Any bus or shared taxi heading east from Santa Marta will pass through, and you can flag them down at any point on the road. The journey time from Santa Marta to Palomino is approximately 1.5 hours. From Cartagena, allow 4 to 5 hours.
Ask the driver to drop you at the Palomino entrance on the main road (or just follow the backpackers), then walk or take a mototaxi to the beach via the main strip.
Is Palomino Safe for Tourists?
Yes, with standard beach precautions. Don’t leave valuables unattended on the beach, be aware of rip currents as the Caribbean coast here can have strong surf, and keep an eye on belongings in crowded areas. The town itself is safe and well-travelled.
One thing to note about the North Coast of Colombia in general is that it still experiences conflict in the area with the paramilitary and left wing guerilla groups. In fact, for a few days when I was in the area, that part of the road, including Palomino, was closed down by the military because of a conflict. Try to keep an eye on the Colombian news as much as possible to keep up to date with any new stories. That being said, nothing felt unsafe and I never saw anything to make me feel on edge.
ATMs and Money in Palomino
ATM availability in Palomino is famously limited and unreliable. Arrive with enough cash from Santa Marta or Cartagena to cover your stay, or you’ll need to pay a moto taxi to take you to the next town over called Mingueo, about a 30 minute drive each way. Know that on average, prices have risen with the gentrification but it remains a cash-heavy economy at the hostel and local restaurant level, much the same with a lot of Colombia.